Water dripping from the indoor unit is almost always a condensate drainage problem - annoying, fixable, and rarely a sign the system itself is failing. Ice is the other suspect: a frozen coil melts between cycles and overflows the pan. Here's how to tell which you have.
Safe checks first
- Filters and the coil. Pull the filters. If the coil behind them is iced, you have a freezing problem, not a drain problem - power off, let it thaw (towels down), clean the filters, run it again. If it re-freezes: technician (airflow or refrigerant).
- The drain line's exit. Find where the condensate line exits outside (usually near the line-set penetration). Trickling water during cooling = drain working. Nothing during humid-day cooling = blockage upstream.
- Drain-line slope and kinks. Visually follow accessible line: sags, kinks, or a section running uphill hold water and back it up. Long horizontal runs are the classic offender.
- Algae/debris clog. With the unit off, a wet/dry vacuum sealed on the outdoor end of the drain line for a minute clears most soft clogs. (Skip chemical cleaners - they pool in the pan.)
- Recent install? A pan that overflows from day one usually means the indoor unit isn't level or the drain stub connection leaks - installer callback, not a service call.
When it's technician territory
- Re-freezing coil after clean filters (refrigerant or airflow diagnosis)
- Water from places other than the pan area (could be a coil or connection issue)
- Condensate pump systems (basements, long lifts): pump failure or float switch - repairs involve wiring
- Any leak paired with an error code - check the library first
Why it matters beyond the drips
Chronic overflow soaks drywall and grows mold behind the unit. If you've had two or more overflow events, ask the technician to check pan pitch, drain routing, and (in humid climates) whether the line needs a trap or larger diameter - not just to clear the clog.
Sources
No model-specific systems are linked from this guide yet.